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Style guide · Atelier Mesure, Paris 7th

Cufflinks - Complete Guide

The refined finishing touch at the cuff. Cufflinks complete formal elegance and add a note of personal refinement.

9 chapters5 rules6 min read
Silver cufflinks

Cufflinks: A Detail of Distinction

Cufflinks are worn with French-cuff shirts. COMPULSORY with a tuxedo, they are optional but elegant with a formal suit. Cufflinks are one of the few pieces of men's jewellery accepted with a suit. Unlike the tie, which draws the eye, cufflinks are a discreet detail visible up close. They speak of attention to detail and a mastery of codes. A connoisseur immediately notices quality cufflinks.

Chain-Link Cufflinks

Classic Elegant
Silver chain-link cufflinks

Chain-link cufflinks are the most traditional and elegant. Two decorative faces connected by a flexible chain (typically 2-3cm). The chain passes through the buttonholes and hangs naturally.

ADVANTAGES
Maximum flexibility, easy to put on, elegant and discreet, allow natural wrist movement. The most comfortable to wear.
STYLE
Timeless classic, never dated. Ideal for formal occasions and daily wear.
MATERIALS
Sterling silver (.925), 18k gold (yellow, white, rose), platinum (very high end).
SHAPES
Round (the most classic), oval (elegant), rectangular (modern), barrel (baroque).
BUDGET
EUR 150-800 depending on metal and craftsmanship.
INVESTMENT
A quality sterling silver pair at EUR 200-350 lasts a lifetime.

Toggle Cufflinks

Modern Solid
Toggle cufflinks

Toggle cufflinks (also known as whale back) have a rigid closure that pivots. A decorative face on one side, a locking bar on the other. The bar passes through the buttonhole and pivots 90 degrees to lock.

ADVANTAGES
Very secure fastening, no risk of coming undone, a modern and masculine look, easy once you are accustomed.
DRAWBACKS
Less flexible than chain-link, slightly bulkier.
STYLE
Contemporary modern, American style. Ideal for business and smart casual. Less formal than chain-link.
MATERIALS
Same metals as chain-link (silver, gold, steel). Often in stainless steel for a sport-chic version.
BUDGET
EUR 120-500. A steel version at EUR 120-200 is an excellent starting point.
USE
Excellent for daily business, less appropriate for a very formal tuxedo.

Silk Knot Cufflinks

Smart Casual
Silk knot cufflinks

Silk knot cufflinks are made of braided silk cord tied into a cylindrical knot. Two cylinders connected by an elastic link.

CHARACTERISTICS
Lightweight, flexible, colourful. The cylinders pass through the buttonholes and the elastic holds.
ADVANTAGES
Very comfortable, add subtle colour, accessible price (EUR 30-80), ideal for starting out with French cuffs.
STYLE
Smart casual, relaxed elegance. NOT for very formal occasions. Excellent for the relaxed office, elegant weekends, creative contexts.
COLOURS
Navy (universal), burgundy (refined), black (understated), multicolour (casual). Coordinate with the tie by colour.
USE
A stylish and affordable alternative to metal cufflinks. Ideal for casual shirts with French cuffs. DO NOT wear with a tuxedo - too relaxed.
LIFESPAN
2-5 years before wear - consider them a consumable.

Snap Closure Cufflinks

Practical Daily
Snap closure cufflinks

Snap closure cufflinks have a press-stud mechanism that clips shut. A decorative face plus a face with a mechanical press stud.

ADVANTAGES
Very practical for daily use, quick and secure fastening, reasonable price.
DRAWBACKS
Considered less elegant by purists, visible mechanism is less refined.
USE
For daily business use where practicality comes first, frequent travel (quick to put on), contexts where you change shirt often. Acceptable but not ideal for major occasions.
BUDGET
EUR 80-250. A good balance of quality, price and practicality.
ADVICE
Keep snap cufflinks for daily wear AND chain-link for formal occasions. Do not sacrifice formal elegance for everyday practicality - own both.

Metals, Shapes and Styles

Complete Guide
Various cufflink metals

METALS:

Sterling silver (.925)
- The universal metal. Goes with everything. Develops a distinguished patina over time. Reasonably priced. FIRST PURCHASE.
18k yellow gold
- Warm and traditional. Ideal with warm skin tones. More formal than silver. Higher budget (EUR 400-1,200).
White gold/platinum
- Discreet and modern. A luxurious alternative to silver. Highly refined.
Stainless steel
- Modern sport-chic. Durable, corrosion-resistant. Accessible price (EUR 100-200). Less formal. SHAPES:
Round
- The most classic and versatile.
Oval
- Elegant, visually elongating.
Rectangular
- Modern, masculine.
Square
- Contemporary, assertive. MOTIFS:
Plain
- Maximum elegance and discretion.
Engraved
- Initials, geometric patterns.
Enamelled
- Subtle colour (blue, black).
Semi-precious stones
- Onyx, lapis lazuli. RULE: Restraint always. Avoid ostentatious logos.

Coordination & Wearing Rules

Essential
Cufflink coordination
METAL COORDINATION
Cufflinks should coordinate with other visible metals: watch, belt buckle, wedding ring.
RULE
All silver OR all gold. No mixing silver and gold. Exception: a two-tone watch can bridge silver and gold.
WITH A TUXEDO
Silver or white gold cufflinks are compulsory. Understated shape (round or oval, plain). Absolute discretion - no coloured stones, no flashy enamel.
WITH A FORMAL SUIT
Silver or gold. Classic shapes. Discreet engravings acceptable (initials).
WITH BUSINESS CASUAL
More freedom. Steel, silk knots, modern shapes all acceptable.
VISIBILITY
Cufflinks should be visible below the jacket sleeves (1-1.5cm of shirt showing). If invisible, why wear them?
RESTRAINT
Cufflinks are noticed up close, not from afar. They should NEVER be the focal point of the outfit. Discretion and refinement.

Cufflinks for Weddings

Special Occasion
Wedding cufflinks

A wedding is the occasion par excellence for wearing exceptional cufflinks. For the groom, they are a personal and symbolic detail that completes the ceremony suit. Cufflinks engraved with the couple's initials or the wedding date make a precious keepsake.

FOR THE GROOM
Sterling silver or white gold with a grey or navy suit. Yellow gold with a beige or ivory suit. Classic round or oval shape, discreetly engraved initials.
FOR THE GROOMSMEN
Offering matching cufflinks to the groomsmen creates visual cohesion. A budget of EUR 100-200 per pair makes an appreciated and lasting gift.
WITH A TUXEDO
Understated silver or mother-of-pearl cufflinks are compulsory. No embellishment with Black Tie attire.
WEDDING PITFALLS
Avoid overly showy cufflinks that divert attention. No bright colours or imposing stones. Restraint remains the order of the day, even for a festive occasion.

Care & Preservation

Durability
Cufflink care

Quality cufflinks last a lifetime with proper care. Regular maintenance preserves their lustre and mechanism, while suitable storage prevents scratches and oxidation.

STERLING SILVER
Silver tarnishes naturally on contact with air (oxidation). Polish with a soft silver cloth every 2-3 months. Store in an anti-tarnish pouch or felt-lined box. Avoid contact with perfume, chlorine and chemicals.
GOLD
Gold does not tarnish but does scratch. Clean with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Dry immediately with a microfibre cloth.
STEEL
The easiest to care for. A damp cloth is sufficient. Dry to avoid water marks.
MECHANISM
Regularly check that toggles and chains operate without forcing. Lubricate the mechanism with a drop of watchmaker's oil if there is resistance.
STORAGE
A dedicated compartmentalised box, ideally velvet-lined. Never pile pairs together to avoid cross-scratching.

Key takeaways

Golden Rules of Cufflinks

  1. Metal coordination: cufflinks + watch + belt buckle in the same metal (silver OR gold)
  2. With a tuxedo: understated silver is compulsory - round or oval, plain
  3. Visibility: 1-1.5cm of shirt should show below the jacket sleeves
  4. Restraint always - cufflinks should be noticed up close, never from a distance
  5. A wise investment: 1 pair of classic silver chain-link = maximum versatility

Frequently asked questions

Before you begin.

Cufflinks often complement a made-to-measure shirt from EUR 150 or a suit from EUR 980. The budget varies depending on the metal, mechanism and level of finish desired.

The best time is during the consultation and measurement appointment, especially if the shirt is to be made with French cuffs. The overall lead time for a made-to-measure outfit is generally 4-5 weeks.

The selection is made alongside the shirt, suit and accessories to maintain a consistent style. The process includes the consultation and measurement appointment, the fitting, then delivery.

Toggle cufflinks are practical for daily wear, chain-link cufflinks are more formal, and silk knots are more relaxed. The choice depends on the shirt fabric, the suit and the level of formality desired.

For a wedding, polished metal, mother-of-pearl or understated finish designs add a formal touch without excess. They should remain coordinated with the watch, wedding ring and other metallic details of the outfit.

From rules to practice · Paris 7th

The advisory appointment covers buttoning, colour pairings and the mistakes to avoid, with your adviser. No obligation.