Made-to-Measure Jacket

The shoulders determine the entire structure of the jacket. They must fall precisely at the end of your natural shoulder - neither shorter (narrow shoulders, discomfort) nor longer (drooping shoulders, a careless appearance). A well-constructed shoulder allows the jacket to 'float' on the body without tension. We offer three types of construction: natural shoulder (lightly padded, comfortable, modern), structured shoulder (more padded, presence, traditional business), Neapolitan shoulder (very lightly padded, unstructured, relaxed Italian style). The choice depends on your build, your style and the intended use of the jacket. A naturally sloping shoulder is compensated by invisible asymmetric padding.

The number and arrangement of buttons radically influence the proportions. One button: very modern, elongates the silhouette, relaxed. Reserved for slender builds and less formal contexts. Two buttons: the contemporary standard, a perfect balance between modernity and classicism. Works for all builds. Three buttons: more classic, a longer cut, traditional style. Ideal for tall men or a conservative style. Double-breasted (4 or 6 buttons): maximum formality and presence, demands a structured silhouette. A double-breasted jacket is never unbuttoned, even when seated. The positioning of the buttons determines where your waist appears to be - our team adjusts to optimise your proportions.

The lapels frame your face and determine the level of formality. Notch lapel: the classic standard, versatile, for all occasions. A timeless medium width (7-9cm). Peak lapel: more formal and elegant, directs the eye upward, elongates the silhouette. Essential for tuxedos, excellent for formal or double-breasted suits. Shawl lapel: reserved for tuxedos or smoking jackets, very formal. Lapel width should be proportionate to your build: wide lapels for broad frames, narrower for slighter builds. A lapel that is too wide or too narrow visually unbalances the jacket. The lapel may be in the same fabric (standard) or in silk (tuxedo).

Pockets are not merely a functional detail - they affect the overall appearance. Flap pockets: the versatile standard, appropriate for both business and casual. The flap can be tucked inside for a more formal look. Jetted pockets (no flap): more formal and refined, ideal for evening suits, weddings and formal occasions. A cleaner line. Patch pockets: relaxed, sporty, reserved for blazers and casual jackets. To be avoided on formal suits. The breast pocket (for a pocket square) is almost always jetted. Inside pockets vary according to your needs: phone pocket, wallet, pens. A made-to-measure jacket adapts the number and position of inside pockets to your actual use.

The vents at the back of the jacket are not decorative - they allow mobility and access to the trouser pockets. No vent: a very clean line, formal, Italian style. Note: prevents access to trouser pockets and can create tension when seated. Single centre vent: classic British style. Good mobility, but can open when seated or with hands in trouser pockets. Double side vents: the most practical and modern choice. Excellent mobility, easy pocket access, and they do not open unsightly. This is our default recommendation for most clients. The length and position of the vents are adjusted to your build for a perfect drape even in movement.

Perfectly fitted sleeves are the hallmark of made-to-measure. Length: the sleeve should stop at the wrist bone, allowing 1-1.5cm of shirt to show. This is the detail connoisseurs notice. Width: fitted yet permitting full arm and elbow mobility. Armhole (where the sleeve meets the shoulder): high and fitted for freedom of movement without excess fabric under the arm. Sleeve buttons: 3 or 4 buttons as standard. Working buttonholes (genuine buttonhole stitching) cost more in labour but represent the pinnacle of refinement - you can roll up your sleeves. The sleeve-setting seam can be machine (standard) or hand-sewn for exceptional suits.

Waist suppression determines the line of your jacket. Straight cut: no suppression, a vertical line. Classic style, suits builds with a prominent stomach. Comfortable but can lack structure. Semi-fitted: slight suppression (2-3cm per side), a modern line without excess. The best compromise for most builds - elegant without being tight. Fitted: marked suppression (4-5cm per side), a very close-fitting line. Reserved for athletic builds and a contemporary style. Take care not to overdo it: a jacket that is too fitted pulls at the buttons, creates X-shaped creases (a sign that the jacket is too small), and limits mobility. Made-to-measure allows the suppression to be adjusted precisely to your build and preference.

The jacket length determines your visual proportions. Classic rule: the jacket should cover the seat, with your hands flat touching the bottom of the jacket. This rule works for 80% of builds. For shorter legs: a slightly shorter jacket (1-2cm) visually lengthens the legs. For longer legs: a standard or slightly longer jacket to balance. Modern style: slightly shorter jackets (1-2cm above the classic rule), particularly for younger men and athletic builds. Classic style: traditional or slightly longer length. A jacket that is too short looks juvenile. Too long and it ages and weighs down the appearance. Our team determines the optimal length for your exact proportions.