Comfort
Perfect Fit
A made-to-measure overcoat sits precisely on your shoulders, provides the room needed for the suit underneath, and falls to exactly the right length for your height.
Style guide · Atelier Mesure, Paris 7th
Made-to-Measure Overcoat & Topcoat
The final layer of winter elegance. A made-to-measure overcoat protects from the cold whilst harmoniously completing your suit.
16 chapters5 rules6 min read
Introduction
A made-to-measure overcoat is the indispensable complement to your autumn-winter wardrobe. An impeccable suit under a poorly fitted or dated overcoat ruins the whole effect. The overcoat must harmonise with your suits in colour and style whilst offering freedom of movement and protection from the elements. Coordinate your overcoat with your winter suit, your business suit and your three-piece suits. Made-to-measure guarantees the perfect length and an impeccable drape. Choosing the overcoat according to your use and environment.
Versatility
Harmonious Coordination
Chosen to coordinate with your suits, the overcoat completes your wardrobe. Grey or navy works with 90% of your suits.
Longevity
A Lasting Investment
A made-to-measure overcoat in quality wool lasts 15-20 years. Worn daily for 5 months a year, it is one of the most worthwhile wardrobe pieces.
Daily Business in the City
ProfessionalClassic grey or navy wool overcoat. Daily office wear from October to March. Discreet professional elegance. Protection for city commutes.
Business Travel
TravelA versatile trench coat for trips. Gabardine resists creasing in luggage. Light rain protection. Usable 9 months a year.
Formal Occasions
PrestigeA Chesterfield with velvet collar for elegant events. Galas, opera, winter receptions. Maximum distinction and prestige.
Casual Weekend
LeisureA short peacoat for casual city outings. An elegant relaxed maritime style. Ideal with jeans or separate suit trousers.
Winter Evenings
EveningA wool-cashmere overcoat for winter dinners and receptions. The elegance of a structured coat that accompanies your evening suit with refinement, from restaurant to taxi.
Theatre & Opera
CultureThe velvet-collared Chesterfield is the ideal companion for cultural evenings. Its distinguished silhouette harmonises with a dark suit or tuxedo, affirming your appreciation for the arts.
Winter Weddings
CeremonyAn elegant charcoal or navy wool overcoat completes your winter ceremony outfit. Essential for outdoor photographs and travel between reception venues.
European Travels
GetawayA gabardine trench coat crosses seasons and capitals with remarkable ease. Lightweight, weather-resistant and crease-proof, it protects your suit in all circumstances.
The cuts
- Classic OvercoatOvercoatFormal
- Straight mid-thigh wool coat. Notch collar, single-breasted, straight pockets. The quintessential formal business coat. Long enough to cover the suit.
- PeacoatPeacoatCasual
- Short double-breasted coat of naval origin. Gold buttons, broad collar. Elegant maritime style. More relaxed than an overcoat. Ideal for city wear.
- Trench CoatMid-SeasonVersatile
- Long gabardine coat. Belt, epaulettes, double-breasted. An iconic British style. Rain and wind protection. Versatile across three seasons.
- ChesterfieldPrestigeDistinction
- Overcoat with a velvet collar. Buttoned to the top. The most formal of coats. For very elegant occasions. An aristocratic British style.
Materials
The overcoat fabric determines its warmth, weight and seasonal use. Wool for winter, gabardine for the transitional seasons.
- Charcoal Wool
- THE universal overcoat. Dark grey pairs with all suits (navy, grey, blue). Maximum discreet elegance. The first overcoat to acquire.
- Navy Wool
- An elegant alternative to grey. Pairs with grey and navy suits. Slightly more casual than charcoal. An excellent second overcoat.
- Cashmere-Wool
- 15-30% cashmere. Exceptional softness and warmth. A luxury investment for a signature overcoat. More delicate, requiring expert care.
- Beige Gabardine
- For the classic trench coat. Iconic Burberry beige. Versatile across three seasons. More casual than wool but very elegant. English style.
Fabric weights
- Heavyweight WoolDeep Cold
- 500-600g. For deep-winter coats. Maximum warmth, excellent protection. Cashmere (10-20%) adds softness and insulation. November to February.
- Mid-Weight WoolStandard
- 400-500g. The standard weight for autumn-winter overcoats. A good warmth-to-weight ratio. October to March in most temperate climates.
- Cotton GabardineMid-Season
- 300-350g. For trench coats and transitional-season coats. Light rain resistance. September to May except deep winter. Maximum versatility.
The details
- Shoulder Fit
- Sufficient room
- The overcoat must accommodate a suit jacket without pulling at the shoulders
- Shoulder line
- Falls at the end of your natural shoulder, as with a jacket
- Arm mobility
- Raise your arms in front of you - the coat should not pull at the back
- Suit test
- Always try the overcoat WITH a suit underneath
- The Right Length
- Standard
- Mid-thigh - your hand stretched out with fingers touching the bottom of the coat
- Short (peacoat)
- Above the knee - a relaxed maritime style
- Long (trench)
- Mid-calf or just below the knee - maximum protection
- Rule
- An overcoat must ALWAYS fully cover the suit jacket
- Construction Details
- Lining
- Full lining in silk or Bemberg - makes putting it on easier
- Pockets
- Deep side pockets plus an inner pocket for gloves
- Back vent
- Centre vent or no vent - never side vents on an overcoat
- Buttoning
- Single-breasted for sobriety, double-breasted for presence - always buttoned outdoors
- Suit Coordination
- Colour
- Overcoat in the same tone or darker than the suit - never lighter
- Style
- Overcoat formality level = suit formality level (formal with formal)
- Versatility
- Charcoal or navy works with 90% of suits
- Avoid
- Black overcoat with a light grey suit - too strong a contrast
Care
- Daily Use
- Hang on a broad hanger upon arrival. Brush regularly to remove urban dust and pollution. Allow 24 hours between wears.
- End of Season
- Professional dry cleaning before spring storage. Moth protection is essential. Store hanging in a breathable garment bag in a cool location.
- Longevity
- A quality wool overcoat lasts 15-20 years. Five months' use per year preserves the fabric. One of the most durable and worthwhile clothing purchases.
Going further
A made-to-measure overcoat represents the quintessential outerwear investment. Unlike mass-produced coats with standardised cuts, your overcoat will perfectly follow your shoulders, adjust to your build and drape with elegance. The quality of construction guarantees exceptional durability of 15 to 20 years with appropriate care. A quality made-to-measure cashmere overcoat represents an investment of EUR 1,290 to 2,500 depending on the finishes. Measured against its lifespan and the daily pleasure of wearing an exceptional piece, it is a rational and lasting choice.
Made-to-Measure Overcoat Investment
BudgetA made-to-measure wool overcoat starts from EUR 1,490. In cashmere-wool (20% cashmere): EUR 2,490. Gabardine trench coat: EUR 1,390. Complex construction and generous fabric use justify the cost.
Key takeaways
Golden Rules of the Overcoat
- The overcoat must fully cover the suit jacket - never shorter than the jacket
- Try it on WITH a suit underneath - the coat alone does not reveal the true fit
- Always button up outdoors - an open coat flaps in the wind and looks careless
- Remove indoors - wearing an overcoat inside is inappropriate
- Invest in charcoal first - it pairs with all suits
Frequently asked questions
Before you begin.
The cost depends greatly on the cloth, the length, the lining and the level of construction. For reference, a made-to-measure suit starts from EUR 980 and a made-to-measure shirt from EUR 150.
Generally allow 4-5 weeks between the first appointment and delivery. Planning ahead is recommended for a winter coat or a topcoat intended for a formal event.
The process comprises a consultation and measurements appointment, the choice of cloth and details, then a fitting. Delivery follows once the ease of fit over a jacket or suit is confirmed.
Wool, cashmere or wool-cashmere blends offer warmth, structure and a refined handle. The choice depends on the use: daily business, travel, winter evenings or ceremonies.
A straight dark wool overcoat remains the safest choice for the opera, theatre, a winter wedding or an official reception. The length should cover the jacket without weighing down the silhouette.
A topcoat is a classic straight overcoat, generally mid-thigh length, designed to be worn over a suit. The term overcoat encompasses all long outerwear, including trench coats, peacoats and ulsters.
Cashmere offers exceptional softness and lightness. Merino wool guarantees durability and warmth. Cashmere-wool blends combine the advantages of both. For more modest budgets, a superior-quality wool remains excellent.
Absolutely. This is one of the great advantages of made-to-measure. We can create an overcoat perfectly coordinated with your existing suits in terms of style, colour and lining.
The length depends on your height and intended use. Mid-thigh for everyday versatility, knee-length for more formal elegance, three-quarter length for maximum protection against the cold.
Cashmere requires delicate care: store on a broad hanger, brush gently and regularly, limit dry cleaning, and allow 24 hours' rest between wears to recover its shape.
Yes. Our overcoats are designed to suit different styles. A peacoat or three-quarter coat pairs very well with jeans and boots for a casual-chic look.
Create Your Made-to-Measure Overcoat
Protect yourself from the cold with elegance, thanks to an overcoat perfectly fitted and coordinated with your suits.
Further reading
