Atelier Mesure, Paris 7e
Made-to-Measure Overcoat & Topcoat
The final layer of winter elegance. A made-to-measure overcoat protects from the cold whilst harmoniously completing your suit.
Sommaire
Introduction
A made-to-measure overcoat is the indispensable complement to your autumn-winter wardrobe. An impeccable suit under a poorly fitted or dated overcoat ruins the whole effect. The overcoat must harmonise with your suits in colour and style whilst offering freedom of movement and protection from the elements.
Coordinate your overcoat with your winter suit, your business suit and your three-piece suits. Made-to-measure guarantees the perfect length and an impeccable drape.
Perfect Fit
A made-to-measure overcoat sits precisely on your shoulders, provides the room needed for the suit underneath, and falls to exactly the right length for your height.
Comfort
Harmonious Coordination
Chosen to coordinate with your suits, the overcoat completes your wardrobe. Grey or navy works with 90% of your suits.
Versatility
A Lasting Investment
A made-to-measure overcoat in quality wool lasts 15-20 years. Worn daily for 5 months a year, it is one of the most worthwhile wardrobe pieces.
Longevity
Why Choose Made-to-Measure?
Technology today allows a made-to-measure suit to be offered at the price of a ready-to-wear suit, or even less. Benefit from a perfect fit to your body shape at no additional cost.
Choisir le Bon Tissu
The overcoat fabric determines its warmth, weight and seasonal use. Wool for winter, gabardine for the transitional seasons.
Poids du Tissu
Heavyweight Wool
500-600g. For deep-winter coats. Maximum warmth, excellent protection. Cashmere (10-20%) adds softness and insulation. November to February.
Deep Cold
Mid-Weight Wool
400-500g. The standard weight for autumn-winter overcoats. A good warmth-to-weight ratio. October to March in most temperate climates.
Standard
Cotton Gabardine
300-350g. For trench coats and transitional-season coats. Light rain resistance. September to May except deep winter. Maximum versatility.
Mid-Season
Les Matières
- ●Charcoal Wool : THE universal overcoat. Dark grey pairs with all suits (navy, grey, blue). Maximum discreet elegance. The first overcoat to acquire.
- ●Navy Wool : An elegant alternative to grey. Pairs with grey and navy suits. Slightly more casual than charcoal. An excellent second overcoat.
- ●Cashmere-Wool : 15-30% cashmere. Exceptional softness and warmth. A luxury investment for a signature overcoat. More delicate, requiring expert care.
- ●Beige Gabardine : For the classic trench coat. Iconic Burberry beige. Versatile across three seasons. More casual than wool but very elegant. English style.
Les Coupes
Classic Overcoat
(Overcoat)
Straight mid-thigh wool coat. Notch collar, single-breasted, straight pockets. The quintessential formal business coat. Long enough to cover the suit.
Formal
Peacoat
(Peacoat)
Short double-breasted coat of naval origin. Gold buttons, broad collar. Elegant maritime style. More relaxed than an overcoat. Ideal for city wear.
Casual
Trench Coat
(Mid-Season)
Long gabardine coat. Belt, epaulettes, double-breasted. An iconic British style. Rain and wind protection. Versatile across three seasons.
Versatile
Chesterfield
(Prestige)
Overcoat with a velvet collar. Buttoned to the top. The most formal of coats. For very elegant occasions. An aristocratic British style.
Distinction
Les Détails qui Font la Différence
Shoulder Fit
- Sufficient room : The overcoat must accommodate a suit jacket without pulling at the shoulders
- Shoulder line : Falls at the end of your natural shoulder, as with a jacket
- Arm mobility : Raise your arms in front of you - the coat should not pull at the back
- Suit test : Always try the overcoat WITH a suit underneath
The Right Length
- Standard : Mid-thigh - your hand stretched out with fingers touching the bottom of the coat
- Short (peacoat) : Above the knee - a relaxed maritime style
- Long (trench) : Mid-calf or just below the knee - maximum protection
- Rule : An overcoat must ALWAYS fully cover the suit jacket
Construction Details
- Lining : Full lining in silk or Bemberg - makes putting it on easier
- Pockets : Deep side pockets plus an inner pocket for gloves
- Back vent : Centre vent or no vent - never side vents on an overcoat
- Buttoning : Single-breasted for sobriety, double-breasted for presence - always buttoned outdoors
Suit Coordination
- Colour : Overcoat in the same tone or darker than the suit - never lighter
- Style : Overcoat formality level = suit formality level (formal with formal)
- Versatility : Charcoal or navy works with 90% of suits
- Avoid : Black overcoat with a light grey suit - too strong a contrast
À aborder dans ce guide
Le guide en 8 chapitres.
Choosing the overcoat according to your use and environment.
Daily Business in the City
Professional
Classic grey or navy wool overcoat. Daily office wear from October to March. Discreet professional elegance. Protection for city commutes.
Business Travel
Travel
A versatile trench coat for trips. Gabardine resists creasing in luggage. Light rain protection. Usable 9 months a year.
Formal Occasions
Prestige
A Chesterfield with velvet collar for elegant events. Galas, opera, winter receptions. Maximum distinction and prestige.
Casual Weekend
Leisure
A short peacoat for casual city outings. An elegant relaxed maritime style. Ideal with jeans or separate suit trousers.
Winter Evenings
Evening
A wool-cashmere overcoat for winter dinners and receptions. The elegance of a structured coat that accompanies your evening suit with refinement, from restaurant to taxi.
Theatre & Opera
Culture
The velvet-collared Chesterfield is the ideal companion for cultural evenings. Its distinguished silhouette harmonises with a dark suit or tuxedo, affirming your appreciation for the arts.
Winter Weddings
Ceremony
An elegant charcoal or navy wool overcoat completes your winter ceremony outfit. Essential for outdoor photographs and travel between reception venues.
European Travels
Getaway
A gabardine trench coat crosses seasons and capitals with remarkable ease. Lightweight, weather-resistant and crease-proof, it protects your suit in all circumstances.
Golden Rules of the Overcoat
Questions Fréquentes
What budget should I allow for a made-to-measure overcoat or topcoat?
The cost depends greatly on the cloth, the length, the lining and the level of construction. For reference, a made-to-measure suit starts from EUR 990 and a made-to-measure shirt from EUR 290.
What is the lead time for a made-to-measure overcoat?
Generally allow 4-5 weeks between the first appointment and delivery. Planning ahead is recommended for a winter coat or a topcoat intended for a formal event.
How does the creation of a topcoat work?
The process comprises a consultation and measurements appointment, the choice of cloth and details, then a fitting. Delivery follows once the ease of fit over a jacket or suit is confirmed.
Which fabric should I choose for an elegant and durable overcoat?
Wool, cashmere or wool-cashmere blends offer warmth, structure and a refined handle. The choice depends on the use: daily business, travel, winter evenings or ceremonies.
Which overcoat should I wear over a suit for a formal occasion?
A straight dark wool overcoat remains the safest choice for the opera, theatre, a winter wedding or an official reception. The length should cover the jacket without weighing down the silhouette.
Entretien
Daily Use
Hang on a broad hanger upon arrival. Brush regularly to remove urban dust and pollution. Allow 24 hours between wears.
End of Season
Professional dry cleaning before spring storage. Moth protection is essential. Store hanging in a breathable garment bag in a cool location.
Longevity
A quality wool overcoat lasts 15-20 years. Five months' use per year preserves the fabric. One of the most durable and worthwhile clothing purchases.
Made-to-Measure Overcoat Investment
A made-to-measure wool overcoat starts from EUR 1,490. In cashmere-wool (20% cashmere): EUR 2,490. Gabardine trench coat: EUR 1,390. Complex construction and generous fabric use justify the cost.
Exemple de calcul :
Charcoal wool overcoat: EUR 1,890. Daily use for 5 months a year over 18 years = 90 months of wear. Worn approximately 20 days per month: 1,800 wears. Cost per wear: EUR 1.05.
The overcoat is visible 100% of the time outdoors. It is your first impression. Invest in quality - this matters more than owning three mediocre coats.
Further reading
