Style guide · Atelier Mesure, Paris 7th
Choosing the Fabric for Your Made-to-Measure Suit
The fabric is the soul of the suit. The choice of cloth determines the comfort, appearance, durability and character of your made-to-measure suit.
Introduction
Our Parisian showroom brings together over 3,000 exceptional fabrics. Each piece is born from a pursuit of harmony between cloth, cut and movement. The fabrics distinguish themselves through their hand, their fluidity and their natural drape. According to the season and the spirit of the occasion, our advisors guide you towards the ideal texture: wool for everyday elegance, cashmere or mohair for the distinction of a wedding suit or a ceremony, linen for summer lightness, tweed for the depth of autumn.
Virgin Wool: The Fundamental Fabric
Virgin wool remains the benchmark for made-to-measure suits. It combines elegance, comfort and longevity with unmatched natural breathability. The fineness of the fibre is measured by the Super grade: 100's, 120's, 150's... The higher the number, the softer and more fluid the fabric. For everyday use, Super 110's to 130's wools offer the ideal balance between structure and comfort. Super 150's are reserved for more special occasions or for connoisseurs seeking a rare sensation and an incomparably light drape. Naturally resistant to creasing, virgin wool adapts to temperature changes and develops a noble patina over time, revealing its full character with each wearing.
Cashmere: Absolute Luxury
Cashmere comes from the precious undercoat of the cashmere goat, harvested once a year. Each animal produces only 150 to 200 grams, a rarity that gives this fibre its exceptional value. Pure cashmere, with its unmatched softness, remains delicate for a suit. This is why cashmere-wool blends (10 to 30% cashmere) are preferred: they combine suppleness, resilience and thermal comfort. A cashmere-wool suit captivates with its luxurious hand, its perfect drape and its subtle warmth. Ideal for autumn and winter, it requires delicate care and the expertise of a skilled dry cleaner to preserve the full nobility of the fibre.
Mohair: Lustre and Resilience
Mohair comes from the fleece of the Angora goat. Its smooth, lustrous fibre captures light, giving the suit a subtle, luminous elegance that is particularly valued in the evening. Mohair-wool blends (90/10 or 95/5) combine the lustre of mohair with the structure of wool, whilst giving the garment remarkable crease resistance. The suit remains impeccable after an entire day, for a polished look from morning to evening. Its texture, slightly coarser than pure wool, becomes soft when worn and ensures refined comfort allied to a naturally distinguished appearance. Ideal for weddings or any occasion where you wish to remain impeccable from morning to evening.
Linen: Summer Freshness
Linen is the most breathable natural fibre, twice as breathable as cotton. For summer suits, nothing matches its capacity to wick moisture and allow air to circulate. Pure linen creases naturally: it is part of its character, not a defect. For those who prefer fewer wrinkles, linen-wool blends (55/45) or linen-cotton blends (60/40) retain the freshness whilst reducing creasing. Linen gives a smart casual style perfect for summer weddings, outdoor events and warm climates. It requires a slightly more generous fit than wool for an elegant, natural drape and becomes softer with washing and time.
Flannel: Warmth and Texture
Flannel is a brushed wool that offers a soft, slightly napped surface, providing natural warmth and a comfortable hand. Ideal for autumn and winter, it comes in different weights: light (240-280g) for mid-season, medium (300-340g) for winter. Classic shades - mid grey, charcoal grey and navy - often appear in matte plains, giving the suit a noble and timeless appearance. Flannel ages beautifully: its texture improves over time. Its slightly more relaxed style compared to classic worsted wool makes it the ideal cloth for smart casual autumn-winter wear.
Tweed: British Character
Tweed is a thick fabric woven from yarns of different colours, creating classic patterns: herringbone, houndstooth or checks. Originating from the Scottish Highlands, Harris Tweed remains the absolute benchmark, protected by a controlled appellation according to a centuries-old tradition. Renowned for its exceptional durability, a well-maintained tweed suit can last 20 to 30 years without losing its character. It offers natural warmth, weather resistance and a refined rustic charm. Perfect for country events or more relaxed autumn-winter settings, it appeals through its authenticity and heritage. The thickness of the fabric demands precise fitting for an impeccable drape.
Understanding Fabric Weight
Fabric weight, expressed in grams per square metre (g/m2), determines the cloth's thickness, warmth and seasonality. Light (220-260g): ideal for spring-summer, breathable and fluid, but softer and less structured. Medium (260-300g): versatile all year round, the perfect balance between structure and comfort. Heavy (300-380g): autumn-winter, offering natural structure and warmth. Very heavy (380g+): winter, tweed or thick flannel, for a pronounced drape and commanding presence. Contrary to popular belief, weight alone does not define warmth: the nature of the fibre matters more. A lightweight mohair, for example, can be as comfortable in winter as a heavier wool thanks to its insulating properties.
Italian, English and Scottish Fabrics
Italian fabrics - Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Vitale Barberis Canonico - are distinguished by their softness, suppleness and lustre. Their silky hand, fluid drape and luminous shades embody a Mediterranean elegance, perfect for summer suits and contemporary silhouettes. English fabrics - Fox Brothers, Holland & Sherry, Dugdale Bros & Co - favour structure, hold and durability. Their firmer hand and precise drape express a classic, timeless elegance, ideal for the business suit. Scottish fabrics, through tweed, form a category apart: robustness, character, authenticity. The choice depends on your personal style and the intended use of the suit: Italian fluidity, English rigour or the raw charm of the Highlands.
Suit Fabric Comparison Table
Choose the fabric suited to your use and your budget
- Worsted Wool
- Price
- ££
- Super
- 100-120s
- Use
- Daily business
- Season
- 4 seasons
- Care
- Easy
- Fine Wool
- Price
- £££
- Super
- 130-150s
- Use
- Premium business
- Season
- 4 seasons
- Care
- Moderate
- Luxury Wool
- Price
- ££££
- Super
- 160-200s
- Use
- Special occasions
- Season
- Spring-Autumn
- Care
- Delicate
- Flannel
- Price
- ££
- Super
- 110-130s
- Use
- Smart casual
- Season
- Autumn-Winter
- Care
- Easy
- Fresco
- Price
- £££
- Super
- Variable
- Use
- Hot days
- Season
- Summer
- Care
- Easy
- Mohair
- Price
- £££
- Super
- Variable
- Use
- Weddings, galas
- Season
- 4 seasons
- Care
- Moderate
- Pure Cashmere
- Price
- £££££
- Super
- N/A
- Use
- Luxury, occasions
- Season
- Autumn-Winter
- Care
- Delicate
- Wool-Cashmere
- Price
- ££££
- Super
- Variable
- Use
- Premium daily
- Season
- 4 seasons
- Care
- Moderate
- Linen
- Price
- ££
- Super
- N/A
- Use
- Smart casual
- Season
- Summer
- Care
- Ironing
- Cotton
- Price
- £
- Super
- N/A
- Use
- Casual
- Season
- Spring-Summer
- Care
- Easy
- Tweed
- Price
- £££
- Super
- Variable
- Use
- Country, casual
- Season
- Autumn-Winter
- Care
- Easy
£ = 100-200EUR/m | ££ = 200-350EUR/m | £££ = 350-500EUR/m | ££££ = 500-800EUR/m | £££££ = 800EUR+/m
Our Recommendations by Profile
- First made-to-measure suit
- Versatile, durable, outstanding value
- Fabric
- Super 120s navy or grey wool
- Daily business suit
- Resilience and elegance for frequent wear
- Fabric
- Super 130s wool or gabardine
- Wedding suit
- Subtle lustre, perfect photographs
- Fabric
- Wool-mohair or Super 150s
- Summer suit
- Maximum lightness and breathability
- Fabric
- Fresco or tropical wool
- Long-term investment
- Luxurious comfort, 15+ year durability
- Fabric
- Wool-cashmere or full canvas Super 150s
From rules to practice · Paris 7th
Further reading
