Atelier Mesure, Paris 7e
Made-to-Measure Tuxedo - Black Tie
Absolute formal elegance. The made-to-measure tuxedo is the garment for Black Tie evenings, galas and the most prestigious events.
Sommaire
Introduction
The tuxedo is the suit for Black Tie events. It is the quintessential formal evening garment, distinct from the city suit. The tuxedo follows strict codes established since the 19th century: satin lapels, braided trousers, black bow tie, bib-front shirt.
A made-to-measure tuxedo is worn with a black bow tie (never a tie) and a bib-front shirt. Not to be confused with the evening suit for semi-formal events. Discover also our wedding suit for daytime ceremonies.
Strict Dress Code
The tuxedo answers the obligatory 'Black Tie' dress code. When an invitation states Black Tie, a tuxedo is not optional - it is required.
Formality
Timeless Elegance
A well-cut tuxedo transcends the decades. The codes of the tuxedo have not changed in 100 years and will not change. It is a heritage investment.
Timeless
Absolute Distinction
Wearing a tuxedo demonstrates your mastery of the codes of masculine elegance. You are immediately recognised as someone who understands and respects tradition.
Excellence
Why Choose Made-to-Measure?
Technology today allows a made-to-measure suit to be offered at the price of a ready-to-wear suit, or even less. Benefit from a perfect fit to your body shape at no additional cost.
Choisir le Bon Tissu
The tuxedo is traditionally made in black or very dark midnight blue wool. The fabric must be of superior quality as the tuxedo is on display under the artificial lighting of evening events.
Poids du Tissu
Super 150's Wool
The standard fabric for a quality tuxedo. Impeccable drape, depth of black, appropriate fineness. Ideal for indoor, climate-controlled events.
Standard Premium
Wool-Mohair
Excellent breathability for long evenings. Mohair adds crease resistance and subtle lustre. Ideal for galas and opera.
Performance
Barathea
A slightly granular traditional texture. Less shiny than satin, with a distinguished matt appearance. The choice of British connoisseurs.
Classic
Les Matières
- ●Black Super 150's Wool : The classic tuxedo fabric. Deep black with exceptional drape. 90% of tuxedos are in black wool - the reliable choice.
- ●Midnight Blue Wool : An elegant alternative to pure black. Under artificial lighting, it appears black with subtle reflections. More visually interesting than strict black.
- ●Black Velvet : For a distinctive tuxedo jacket. Velvet is luxurious and accepted for creative tuxedos. Reserved for confident connoisseurs.
- ●Avoid : NEVER a coloured tuxedo (burgundy, off-white). NEVER a tuxedo in linen or cotton. A tuxedo is black or midnight blue, in wool. Full stop.
Les Coupes
Shawl Collar Tuxedo
(Shawl Collar)
Continuous satin shawl lapel. The most classic and elegant style. Rounded lapels flowing from the collar to the bottom of the jacket. Timeless.
Classic
Peak Lapel Tuxedo
(Peak Lapel)
Satin-faced peak lapels. Traditional British style. More formal and structured than the shawl. Excellent for slender builds.
British
Notch Lapel Tuxedo
(Notch Lapel)
Satin-faced notch lapels. Modern American style. Less formal than shawl or peak. Acceptable, but not the first choice of purists.
Modern
Les Détails qui Font la Différence
Tuxedo Jacket
- Lapels : MUST be in satin (silk) or barathea - never in plain wool
- Buttons : Satin-covered black buttons - never exposed buttons
- Pockets : Jetted pockets (no flaps) - a tuxedo has no flaps
- Buttoning : One button (classic) or two buttons (acceptable). NEVER three buttons
Tuxedo Trousers
- Braid : ESSENTIAL: satin braid on the side seams
- Waistband : NO belt loops. Silk cummerbund or braces
- Pleats : With or without pleats depending on build - both are accepted
- Turn-ups : NEVER turn-ups on tuxedo trousers - plain hem
Tuxedo Shirt
- Colour : WHITE only - never a coloured shirt with a tuxedo
- Bib front : Pleated or marcella (pique) bib - never a plain shirt
- Collar : Wing collar (traditional) or Italian collar (modern)
- Cuffs : French cuffs are ESSENTIAL with cufflinks
Essential Accessories
- Bow tie : BLACK silk - NEVER a tie with a tuxedo
- Cummerbund : Pleated black silk cummerbund or black braces
- Shoes : Black patent leather Oxfords or patent leather loafers - brilliantly polished
- Socks : Black over-the-calf socks in lisle cotton - never short socks
À aborder dans ce guide
Le guide en 8 chapitres.
Events where a tuxedo is appropriate or obligatory.
Obligatory Black Tie
Required
When the invitation specifies 'Black Tie' or 'Evening dress', a tuxedo is OBLIGATORY. Charity galas, opera, balls, prestigious premieres. A black suit does NOT replace a tuxedo.
Evening Weddings
Celebration
Weddings with a reception after 6pm where the Black Tie dress code is indicated. The groom and groomsmen may wear tuxedos. For daytime weddings, prefer a classic suit.
Opera & Theatre
Culture
Opening nights at the opera, gala evenings at the national theatres. The tuxedo is the traditional garment for these prestigious cultural events.
Official Receptions
Official
State dinners, diplomatic receptions, presidential events. The tuxedo (or White Tie tailcoat as protocol dictates) is the protocol garment.
Casino & Private Evenings
Prestige
The tuxedo is the required attire in prestigious casinos and high-end private events. Its impeccable silhouette and satin lapels catch the light of the chandeliers, lending a natural presence to every moment of the evening.
New Year's Eve
Celebration
New Year's Eve is the quintessential occasion for a tuxedo. Its elegant formality accompanies the turning of the year with panache, from the midnight champagne toast through to the final hours of the celebration.
Charity Galas
Philanthropy
Charity galas demand impeccable attire. A made-to-measure tuxedo demonstrates your respect for the cause and the guests, whilst distinguishing you through the perfection of your silhouette.
Award Ceremonies
Distinction
Whether presenting or receiving an award, the tuxedo is the absolute standard for ceremonies of distinction. Its perfect cut and measured formalism place you at the level of the event with impeccable elegance.
Absolute Tuxedo Rules
Questions Fréquentes
What budget should I allow for a made-to-measure tuxedo?
A made-to-measure suit starts from EUR 990, and the cost of a tuxedo varies according to the fabric, lapels, construction and finishes. A made-to-measure Black Tie shirt starts from EUR 290.
What is the lead time for a tuxedo?
Generally allow 4-5 weeks between the first appointment and delivery. For a gala, evening wedding or award ceremony, it is best to plan ahead to secure the final fitting.
How does the creation of a made-to-measure tuxedo work?
The process comprises a consultation and measurements appointment, fabric, lapel and Black Tie detail selection, then a fitting. Delivery follows the necessary adjustments.
Which fabric should I choose for a Black Tie tuxedo?
Black or midnight blue wool with satin or grosgrain lapels remains the reference. The choice depends on the level of formality, the season and the type of event.
When should I wear a tuxedo rather than a classic suit?
A tuxedo is required when the invitation states Black Tie, evening dress or gala. It is also suited to evening weddings, opera, official receptions and formal New Year celebrations.
Entretien
Expert Care
A tuxedo requires a specialist dry cleaner who understands satin. NEVER entrust your tuxedo to a standard cleaner. Satin lapels are delicate.
Protected Storage
A breathable garment bag is essential. Satin is sensitive to light and humidity. Store away from direct light in a dry location.
Occasional Wear
A tuxedo is worn infrequently - perhaps 2-5 times per year. Check the fit a few days before the event. Air for 24 hours before wearing.
Made-to-Measure Tuxedo Investment
A made-to-measure tuxedo starts from EUR 1,890 in Super 150's wool with satin lapels. It costs more than a suit because the construction is more complex (satin lapels, satin braid, covered buttons). Allow EUR 2,490-3,490 for an exceptional tuxedo.
Exemple de calcul :
Made-to-measure tuxedo in Super 180's with satin shawl lapels: EUR 2,890. Lifespan: 20+ years. Worn 3 times per year for 20 years: 60 events. Cost per event: EUR 48. A quality tuxedo spans your entire adult life.
A tuxedo is a heritage investment. The codes have not changed in 100 years and will not change. A well-made tuxedo at 30 will still suit you at 50 (with minor adjustments). It is the most enduring clothing purchase in existence.
Further reading
