Atelier Mesure, Paris 7e
The Different Construction Types
For made-to-measure suits and jackets
Les types de constructions d'un costume sont essentiels puisqu'ils définissent le grade de qualité du vêtement et contribuent grandement à son allure. Atelier Mesure propose le type de fabrication qui convient le mieux à chaque client.
ATELIER MESURE TAILORING CANVAS
Every made-to-measure jacket is built around a central skeleton that gives it drape and structure: the canvas. This consists of a blend of cotton and horsehair attached to the outer fabric by very precise chevron stitching, done by machine or by hand depending on the construction type.
Used as a stabiliser between the outer fabric and the lining, the tailoring canvas is composed of a blend of cotton and horsehair whose balance is the proprietary formula of ATELIER MESURE.
- ●The 'standard' construction for a modern, structured yet relaxed look with a genuine sartorial touch.
- ●The 'lightweight' construction offers even more suppleness and is ideal for those seeking maximum lightness.
Les Constructions Disponibles
SEMI-TRADITIONAL
Our most accessible construction: a piece of tailoring canvas is used on the chest front (but not extending to the lapels), then bonded with a very fine layer of high-technology adhesive to the outer fabric.
The tailoring canvas used is fluid, and the next-generation adhesive ensures suppleness and comfort in the garment whilst guaranteeing good durability. The finish is clean and crease-free. This construction is recommended for the most budget-conscious clients or for considered purchases on jackets in heavy or trend-driven fabrics.
TRADITIONAL HALF CANVAS
Our entry-level traditional construction: the tailoring canvas is present on the chest front and lapels and attached to the fabric without adhesive, using chevron stitches, for a more breathable and durable garment.
This chevron assembly prevents the outer fabric from deforming over time whilst allowing good freedom of movement. An accessible construction that gives the jacket an elegant style and classic structure.
Available in Asia (20% hand operations) or Italy (30% hand operations) variants
TRADITIONAL FULL CANVAS
Tailoring excellence: the canvas is present across the entire front of the jacket, assembled in an entirely traditional manner without adhesive, giving the garment unmatched durability, wearability and drape.
The investment purchase par excellence!
- ✓A garment with more personality and soul, becoming increasingly beautiful, alive and comfortable with each wearing
- ✓The longest lifespan, resulting from better distribution of stress points achieved through traditional construction
- ✓A superior fit, thanks to the natural property of horsehair to conform to individual body types
- ✓Comfortable, thanks to a more sophisticated assembly method that allows optimal freedom of movement
- ✓Integrity, showing respect for the natural qualities of the fabrics which retain their character and natural drape
Available in Asia (35% hand operations) or Italy (50% hand operations) variants
TRADITIONAL FULL CANVAS HAND-FINISHED
Similar to full canvas but assembled almost entirely by hand in the tradition of the great master tailors.
It crystallises tailoring excellence: the canvas is hand-stitched for even more style, fit and comfort. The sleeves, collar and shoulders are set by hand for a yet more precise drape, and numerous details are meticulously refined to perfection. A construction for the most discerning connoisseurs.
Available in hand-finished Asia (70% hand operations) and hand-finished Italy (90% hand operations) variants
DECONSTRUCTED
Our second lightest construction, with an almost total absence of tailoring canvas - only a very small piece provides structure to the chest front.
A demonstration of the artisans' skill, the deconstructed jacket retains the drape characteristic of fine tailored garments with a very fluid, precise fit. The ideal construction for enthusiasts seeking exceptional lightness and comfort.
Available in Asia (35% hand operations) or Italy (50% hand operations) variants
DECONSTRUCTED HAND-FINISHED
The supreme expression of lightness, savoir-faire and comfort. Our lightest construction with absolutely no tailoring canvas and no adhesive.
In the spirit of the deconstructed but assembled almost entirely by hand in the tradition of the great tailors - the pinnacle. You will barely notice you are wearing a jacket! As the tailors say: 'Una giacca senza niente!' ('A jacket with nothing!')
Available in hand-finished Asia (70% hand operations) and hand-finished Italy (90% hand operations) variants
Informations Complémentaires
Industrial (Not used by Atelier Mesure)
Without tailoring canvas, replaced by a more rigid synthetic material bonded to the fabric. This construction, commonly called 'fused', is not used by ATELIER MESURE.
Standard or Lightweight Construction
The ATELIER MESURE tailoring canvas is available in 'standard' construction for a modern, structured look, or 'lightweight' for maximum suppleness and lightness.
Further reading
