Style icons7 November 20253 min read
The Thomas Shelby suit: the raw elegance of Peaky Blinders.
Thomas Shelby's three-piece has become a menswear reference. This raw yet refined nineteen-twenties silhouette comes down to three pillars, three cloths and a handful of details in the cut.
By Gilles Masson, Atelier Mesure, Paris 7ᵉ
Thomas Shelby's style rests on three pillars that make its elegance both raw and sophisticated: tweed, the structured cut of the nineteen twenties and the waistcoat. None is a matter of fancy dress. They are choices in cut, and each translates to a contemporary wardrobe.
The codes of the Peaky Blinders suit
British tweed
The emblematic cloth of the industrial Midlands, tweed brings texture and character. In the series: herringbones and windowpanes in grey, charcoal and tobacco brown.
The structured nineteen-twenties cut
- High-waisted jacket, double-breasted or three-button fastening
- Defined yet natural shoulders, without excessive padding
- High rise: 11 to 12 cm above the hip
- Straight, gently tapered legs with a clean break
The indispensable waistcoat
The centrepiece of the three-piece, the waistcoat is worn close, with five or six buttons. In Peaky Blinders, it is often cut from the same cloth as the jacket, creating a perfectly coherent line.
“Three authentic cloths to recreate Thomas Shelby's style, each with its own qualities and character.”
Three cloths from the atelier
The rugged choice
Fox Brothers Irish tweed
A 100% virgin-wool herringbone, 360 g/m², slate grey with subtle brown threads. Its rugged texture makes it the ideal autumn-winter three-piece.
The urban choice
Prince of Wales flannel
A charcoal-grey windowpane. Less rustic than tweed and every bit as elegant: the city version.
The authentic choice
Certified Harris Tweed
Woven in the Hebrides, with a pronounced grain, natural dyes and legendary durability. The purist's choice.
Accessories for the look
Key points
Accessories in the Peaky Blinders style.
White shirt with a wing or structured spread collar
A narrow wool or knitted tie in a solid burgundy, navy or forest green
A matching tweed flat cap, the famous newsboy cap
A gold or brass watch chain attached to the waistcoat
Brown or burgundy leather ankle boots with brogue detailing
Adapting the style today
The Peaky Blinders suit works today because it avoids vintage excess. Our adjustments produce a contemporary result:
| Softer shoulders | A half-canvassed rather than rigid construction |
|---|---|
| A narrower trouser | Slim-straight, never baggy |
| A controlled jacket length | Just covering the seat, no longer |
| No permanent creases | A cleaner trouser with less of a period-costume look |
The result
Nineteen-twenties spirit with contemporary comfort. Tweed, waistcoat and high rise are decided at the atelier, in front of the mirror: see also our three-piece suit page.
