Atelier Mesure, Paris 7e
The Art of Suit Crafting
A traditional garment begins with traditional crafting where artisanship is evident. Discover the details that define the excellence of a made-to-measure suit.
The following descriptions briefly outline what is involved in terms of benefit, finishes, comfort and wearability.
Traditional crafting involves a number of hand-finished operations that are systematically carried out. To achieve optimal comfort, only natural, soft, supple, lightweight and high-quality materials are used.
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THE ROLLING LAPEL OR 'ROLLINO'
The canvas is attached to the lapels with a specific tension to achieve the distinctive rolling lapel effect.
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CANVAS AND INTERLINING
In every ATELIER MESURE jacket, different layers of canvas interwoven with horsehair are used so that the front of the jacket moulds to the body's shape, even after being worn multiple times, and retains this shape. The different canvas layers are separated and float freely between the fabric and the lining to provide optimal comfort.
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THE UNDER-COLLAR
The jacket collar is lengthened so that the ends can be turned back, making the felt invisible when the jacket is worn. The ends are secured with a hand stitch.
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BOUTONNIERE LOOP
Crafted and sewn by hand, the loop holds the stem of a flower you may choose to wear on a special occasion. A nod to sartorial tradition.
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ARMHOLE LINING
During construction, the jacket is turned inside out to allow the placement of components between the fabric and lining. Once complete, the jacket is turned right side out. This is done through an opening in the sleeve lining. To ensure the closing seam is neither visible nor uncomfortable at this point - what we call the 'cheap stitch' - it is closed with an invisible seam that can only be executed by hand.
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LINING PROTECTION
Anti-perspiration shields are sewn beneath the arms to protect the lining and extend the garment's lifespan.
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ROUNDED BREAST POCKET - BARCHETTA
The breast pocket is one of the few parts of the jacket that typically has a rectangular shape. A rounded shape is more natural, more balanced and more harmonious in relation to the other contours of the jacket. However, this is a complex operation that requires considerable time.
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HAND PICK STITCHING (AMF)
In the hand-finished construction type, all pick stitching is done by hand, resulting in a characteristic subtle irregularity.
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HAND-STITCHED SHOULDER SEAM
Attaching the lining to the shoulder seam from the exterior allows the lining to be set into the jacket with optimal suppleness. This operation can only be performed in this manner by hand.
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HAND-SEWN BUTTONS ON SHANK
Sewing a button in a 'fleur-de-lis' pattern with a shank can only be done by hand. A highly identifiable detail of hand-finished construction.
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HAND-STITCHED LINING
Using a special stitch, the lining and fabric are sewn from the outside and within the jacket seam. This is rare, as the work is usually done from the inside of the jacket with an ordinary straight stitch. By stitching from the exterior, the lining length can be perfectly matched to the jacket length.
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PLEATED WAISTBAND CURTAIN
The pleating of the interior waistband gives it additional volume, allowing a more comfortable fit.
Further reading
