Formality
Strict Dress Code
The tuxedo answers the obligatory 'Black Tie' dress code. When an invitation states Black Tie, a tuxedo is not optional - it is required.
Style guide · Atelier Mesure, Paris 7th
Made-to-Measure Tuxedo - Black Tie
Absolute formal elegance. The made-to-measure tuxedo is the garment for Black Tie evenings, galas and the most prestigious events.
15 chapters5 rules6 min read
Introduction
The tuxedo is the suit for Black Tie events. It is the quintessential formal evening garment, distinct from the city suit. The tuxedo follows strict codes established since the 19th century: satin lapels, braided trousers, black bow tie, bib-front shirt. A made-to-measure tuxedo is worn with a black bow tie (never a tie) and a bib-front shirt. Not to be confused with the evening suit for semi-formal events. Discover also our wedding suit for daytime ceremonies. Events where a tuxedo is appropriate or obligatory.
Timeless
Timeless Elegance
A well-cut tuxedo transcends the decades. The codes of the tuxedo have not changed in 100 years and will not change. It is a heritage investment.
Excellence
Absolute Distinction
Wearing a tuxedo demonstrates your mastery of the codes of masculine elegance. You are immediately recognised as someone who understands and respects tradition.
Obligatory Black Tie
RequiredWhen the invitation specifies 'Black Tie' or 'Evening dress', a tuxedo is OBLIGATORY. Charity galas, opera, balls, prestigious premieres. A black suit does NOT replace a tuxedo.
Evening Weddings
CelebrationWeddings with a reception after 6pm where the Black Tie dress code is indicated. The groom and groomsmen may wear tuxedos. For daytime weddings, prefer a classic suit.
Opera & Theatre
CultureOpening nights at the opera, gala evenings at the national theatres. The tuxedo is the traditional garment for these prestigious cultural events.
Official Receptions
OfficialState dinners, diplomatic receptions, presidential events. The tuxedo (or White Tie tailcoat as protocol dictates) is the protocol garment.
Casino & Private Evenings
PrestigeThe tuxedo is the required attire in prestigious casinos and high-end private events. Its impeccable silhouette and satin lapels catch the light of the chandeliers, lending a natural presence to every moment of the evening.
New Year's Eve
CelebrationNew Year's Eve is the quintessential occasion for a tuxedo. Its elegant formality accompanies the turning of the year with panache, from the midnight champagne toast through to the final hours of the celebration.
Charity Galas
PhilanthropyCharity galas demand impeccable attire. A made-to-measure tuxedo demonstrates your respect for the cause and the guests, whilst distinguishing you through the perfection of your silhouette.
Award Ceremonies
DistinctionWhether presenting or receiving an award, the tuxedo is the absolute standard for ceremonies of distinction. Its perfect cut and measured formalism place you at the level of the event with impeccable elegance.
The cuts
- Shawl Collar TuxedoShawl CollarClassic
- Continuous satin shawl lapel. The most classic and elegant style. Rounded lapels flowing from the collar to the bottom of the jacket. Timeless.
- Peak Lapel TuxedoPeak LapelBritish
- Satin-faced peak lapels. Traditional British style. More formal and structured than the shawl. Excellent for slender builds.
- Notch Lapel TuxedoNotch LapelModern
- Satin-faced notch lapels. Modern American style. Less formal than shawl or peak. Acceptable, but not the first choice of purists.
Materials
The tuxedo is traditionally made in black or very dark midnight blue wool. The fabric must be of superior quality as the tuxedo is on display under the artificial lighting of evening events.
- Black Super 150's Wool
- The classic tuxedo fabric. Deep black with exceptional drape. 90% of tuxedos are in black wool - the reliable choice.
- Midnight Blue Wool
- An elegant alternative to pure black. Under artificial lighting, it appears black with subtle reflections. More visually interesting than strict black.
- Black Velvet
- For a distinctive tuxedo jacket. Velvet is luxurious and accepted for creative tuxedos. Reserved for confident connoisseurs.
- Avoid
- NEVER a coloured tuxedo (burgundy, off-white). NEVER a tuxedo in linen or cotton. A tuxedo is black or midnight blue, in wool. Full stop.
Fabric weights
- Super 150's WoolStandard Premium
- The standard fabric for a quality tuxedo. Impeccable drape, depth of black, appropriate fineness. Ideal for indoor, climate-controlled events.
- Wool-MohairPerformance
- Excellent breathability for long evenings. Mohair adds crease resistance and subtle lustre. Ideal for galas and opera.
- BaratheaClassic
- A slightly granular traditional texture. Less shiny than satin, with a distinguished matt appearance. The choice of British connoisseurs.
The details
- Tuxedo Jacket
- Lapels
- MUST be in satin (silk) or barathea - never in plain wool
- Buttons
- Satin-covered black buttons - never exposed buttons
- Pockets
- Jetted pockets (no flaps) - a tuxedo has no flaps
- Buttoning
- One button (classic) or two buttons (acceptable). NEVER three buttons
- Tuxedo Trousers
- Braid
- ESSENTIAL: satin braid on the side seams
- Waistband
- NO belt loops. Silk cummerbund or braces
- Pleats
- With or without pleats depending on build - both are accepted
- Turn-ups
- NEVER turn-ups on tuxedo trousers - plain hem
- Tuxedo Shirt
- Colour
- WHITE only - never a coloured shirt with a tuxedo
- Bib front
- Pleated or marcella (pique) bib - never a plain shirt
- Collar
- Wing collar (traditional) or Italian collar (modern)
- Cuffs
- French cuffs are ESSENTIAL with cufflinks
- Essential Accessories
- Bow tie
- BLACK silk - NEVER a tie with a tuxedo
- Cummerbund
- Pleated black silk cummerbund or black braces
- Shoes
- Black patent leather Oxfords or patent leather loafers - brilliantly polished
- Socks
- Black over-the-calf socks in lisle cotton - never short socks
Care
- Expert Care
- A tuxedo requires a specialist dry cleaner who understands satin. NEVER entrust your tuxedo to a standard cleaner. Satin lapels are delicate.
- Protected Storage
- A breathable garment bag is essential. Satin is sensitive to light and humidity. Store away from direct light in a dry location.
- Occasional Wear
- A tuxedo is worn infrequently - perhaps 2-5 times per year. Check the fit a few days before the event. Air for 24 hours before wearing.
Made-to-Measure Tuxedo Investment
BudgetA made-to-measure tuxedo starts from EUR 1080 in Super 150's wool with satin lapels. It costs more than a suit because the construction is more complex (satin lapels, satin braid, covered buttons). Allow EUR 2,490-3,490 for an exceptional tuxedo.
Key takeaways
Absolute Tuxedo Rules
- A tuxedo is worn ONLY after 6pm - NEVER during the day
- A bow tie is OBLIGATORY - a tie with a tuxedo is a major faux pas
- A tuxedo ALWAYS remains buttoned - you NEVER unbutton the tuxedo jacket
- Lapels and trouser braid MUST be satin - this is what defines the tuxedo
- If the invitation says 'Black Tie', a black suit is NOT sufficient - you must wear a tuxedo
Frequently asked questions
Before you begin.
A made-to-measure suit starts from EUR 980, and the cost of a tuxedo varies according to the fabric, lapels, construction and finishes. A made-to-measure Black Tie shirt starts from EUR 150.
Generally allow 4-5 weeks between the first appointment and delivery. For a gala, evening wedding or award ceremony, it is best to plan ahead to secure the final fitting.
The process comprises a consultation and measurements appointment, fabric, lapel and Black Tie detail selection, then a fitting. Delivery follows the necessary adjustments.
Black or midnight blue wool with satin or grosgrain lapels remains the reference. The choice depends on the level of formality, the season and the type of event.
A tuxedo is required when the invitation states Black Tie, evening dress or gala. It is also suited to evening weddings, opera, official receptions and formal New Year celebrations.
Create Your Made-to-Measure Tuxedo
Prepare for the most prestigious events of your life with a tuxedo that fits perfectly and conforms to Black Tie codes.
Further reading
