Impact
Maximum Presence
The double breasting and wide lapels create an imposing, structured silhouette. You will not go unnoticed in a double-breasted suit.
Style guide · Atelier Mesure, Paris 7th
Made-to-Measure Double-Breasted Suit
The quintessence of men's elegance. The double-breasted suit commands presence, structure and refinement through its wide lapels and distinctive buttoning.
16 chapters5 rules6 min read
Introduction
The double-breasted suit represents the pinnacle of classic men's elegance. With its double rows of buttons and wide lapels, it commands respect and authority. Born in the naval forces, the double-breasted suit is today synonymous with refinement and self-assurance. It is a suit that demands a certain stature to be worn with confidence. Pair your double-breasted suit with a made-to-measure shirt with a wide collar and a quality tie. For added prestige, discover our double-breasted three-piece suit. Explore our full made-to-measure suit collection. The occasions where the double-breasted suit makes the difference and commands your presence.
Prestige
Formal Elegance
The double-breasted is inherently more formal than a single-breasted. It is the suit for occasions where you need to impress and stand out.
Structure
Flattering Silhouette
The double-breasted structures the torso and defines the waist. Perfect for slender and athletic builds, it also compensates for a narrow chest.
High-Finance Business
Corporate EliteThe double-breasted is the suit of bankers, corporate lawyers and executives. It projects authority, tradition and success. Reserved for conservative sectors and highly formal settings.
Formal Events
PrestigeGalas, official ceremonies, prestigious receptions. The double-breasted is appropriate when the dress code calls for 'elegant' or 'evening wear' without specifying black tie.
Distinguished Weddings
DistinctionFor the groom who wishes to stand out, or for groomsmen at highly formal weddings. The double-breasted brings an extra touch of elegance.
Confident Personal Style
PersonalityFor the man who understands the codes and wishes to assert his style. The double-breasted is a statement piece that demands confidence and assurance.
Diplomatic Receptions
ProtocolThe double-breasted suit is the natural choice in diplomatic circles and at official receptions. Its buttoning projects authority and respectability - qualities essential in protocol settings where every sartorial detail is a signal.
Gala Dinners
EveningA refined alternative to a tuxedo at semi-formal gala dinners, the double-breasted in dark wool with peak lapels offers remarkable stature. It allows you to stand out with elegance without resorting to black tie.
Opera & Premieres
CultureTheatre premieres and opera evenings call for attire worthy of the performance. The double-breasted in midnight blue or charcoal is the ideal companion for these exceptional cultural evenings.
Portraits & Official Photoshoots
ImageFor corporate portraits, official photoshoots or press features, the double-breasted structures the silhouette and lends a cinematic quality. Its defined lines and wide lapels naturally capture the lens.
The cuts
- 6x2 Double-BreastedClassic ConfigurationStandard
- 6 buttons, 2 to fasten. The most classic and balanced configuration. Wide peak lapels. A timeless style that suits everyone.
- 6x1 Double-BreastedModern and CleanContemporary
- 6 buttons, only 1 to fasten (bottom). A lower buttoning point for a more modern line. Perfect for visually lengthening a shorter frame.
- 4x2 Double-BreastedUnderstated EleganceBalanced
- 4 buttons, 2 to fasten. Less imposing than the 6x2 whilst retaining the elegance of double breasting. A good compromise for a first double-breasted suit.
Materials
The double-breasted suit, with its overlapping front, creates more volume at the chest. Favour fabrics with a fine drape that structure without adding bulk.
- Super 130's-150's Wool
- The ideal weight for a double-breasted suit. Enough body to structure the double breasting, refined enough for the level of formality.
- Herringbone Tweed
- For a classic British double-breasted. The herringbone pattern and tweed texture reinforce the structured character. A confident style statement.
- Chalk-Stripe Wool
- Fine vertical stripes elongate the silhouette visually and harmonise perfectly with the vertical lines of the double breasting.
- Plain Noble Wool
- Navy blue, charcoal or mid-grey. Plain fabrics allow the double breasting to take centre stage without visual competition.
Fabric weights
- Mid-Lightweight WoolOptimal
- 240-280g recommended for a double-breasted. Enough structure for the double breasting without excessive bulk. Ideal for year-round wear.
- Wool-MohairElegant Summer
- An excellent choice for a summer double-breasted. Light, breathable, crease-resistant. Mohair adds structure without excessive weight.
- FlannelWinter Prestige
- For a distinguished autumn-winter double-breasted. Flannel texture brings warmth and character. Paired with double breasting, the effect is maximised.
The details
- Jacket Front
- Fastening
- 6x2 (classic), 6x1 (modern), 4x2 (understated)
- Lapels
- Wide peak lapels essential - they create visual balance
- Pockets
- Jetted pockets recommended for formal consistency
- Buttons
- Functional buttons on both sides - a mark of quality
- Structure
- Canvas
- Reinforced chest canvas to support the double-breasted structure
- Shoulders
- Structured shoulders - the double-breasted demands presence
- Length
- Slightly longer than single-breasted for balance
- Waist
- Defined waist - the double-breasted must shape the silhouette
- Coordinating Trousers
- Style
- Pleated trousers recommended - consistent with the formality
- Cut
- Classic straight cut - avoid overly slim trousers
- Turn-ups
- Optional trouser turn-ups depending on height and preference
- Rise
- Mid-rise recommended for harmonious proportions
- Specific Rules
- Always fastened
- A double-breasted suit must ALWAYS remain buttoned, even when seated
- No waistcoat
- A waistcoat is never worn under a double-breasted jacket
- Critical fit
- Made-to-measure is essential - the double-breasted forgives no flaws
- Body type
- Not recommended for fuller builds - it adds volume
Care
- Hanging
- Use wide hangers to maintain the shoulder structure. The double-breasted is heavier and more structured than a single-breasted, requiring appropriate support.
- Care
- Regular brushing is essential - double breasting accumulates more dust in the folds. Use a garment steamer between dry cleans.
- Alterations
- The double-breasted is less forgiving of weight changes. Any significant gain or loss will require professional alterations to maintain the perfect fit.
Double-Breasted vs Single-Breasted
Understanding the differences to choose the style that suits your personality.
- Double-breasted fit
- Ready-to-wear
- Standard sizes (crossing point often misplaced)
- Made-to-measure
- Confident elegance
- Body shape advice
- Ready-to-wear
- None (risk of a broadening effect)
- Made-to-measure
- Expert optimises the crossing point for your silhouette
- Buttoning
- Ready-to-wear
- Standard 6 buttons
- Made-to-measure
- 4 or 6 buttons adapted to your height
- Presence
- Ready-to-wear
- Sometimes bulky
- Made-to-measure
- Commanding yet harmonious
- Price
- Ready-to-wear
- EUR 500-900
- Made-to-measure
- From EUR 980
Double-Breasted Suit Investment
BudgetA made-to-measure double-breasted suit starts from EUR 1,290 in Super 120's wool. The more complex construction (double breasting, reinforced canvas) justifies a surcharge of EUR 200-300 compared to a single-breasted suit. Allow EUR 1,690-2,490 for a premium fabric.
Key takeaways
Essential Double-Breasted Suit Rules
- A double-breasted suit must ALWAYS remain buttoned, even when seated - this is an absolute rule
- The bottom buttons are functional - make sure they fasten easily
- The double-breasted demands a perfect fit - made-to-measure is essential; ready-to-wear is rarely satisfactory
- Avoid the double-breasted if you have a fuller build - it adds volume across the chest
- Wear the double-breasted with a wide-collared shirt (Italian or Windsor) to balance the wide lapels
Frequently asked questions
Before you begin.
A made-to-measure double-breasted suit starts from EUR 980, depending on the fabric, structure and finishes. A made-to-measure shirt can complete the outfit from EUR 150.
The average lead time is 4 to 5 weeks, including construction, fitting and any adjustments. This time is important to achieve a clean, balanced double-breasted line.
The consultation appointment defines the lapel width, buttoning, jacket length and measurements. A fitting then validates the hold of the crossing, the drape and comfort before delivery.
Worsted wools, fine flannels and fabrics with subtle herringbone or stripe patterns enhance the structure of the double-breasted suit. The cloth must have enough body to hold the jacket's line.
The double-breasted suit is suited to demanding business environments, gala dinners, distinguished weddings and formal receptions. It asserts a more dressed silhouette than a classic single-breasted suit.
Create Your Made-to-Measure Double-Breasted Suit
The double-breasted suit demands a perfect fit. Book an appointment to create a suit that naturally commands respect and presence.
Further reading
